Over the past two decades, men’s fashion has become more casual, especially at work, but plenty of occasions still call for a good suit. Fatigue with loosefitting leisure wear has even fueled a modest renaissance of the tailored blazer-and-trousers combination, which evolved throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, when men moved decidedly away from opulent frock coats and breeches. In the time since, suits in various colors, patterns and silhouettes have come in and out of style, but a few classics have stood the test of time. Below, our rundown of the essentials, along with some specific styles to ponder or purchase.
The Black Suit
Black was for many decades considered dour and thus an unpopular choice for suits. That changed in the 1980s, thanks to designers like Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein. The hue remains a stylish and versatile choice today: Whether solid or pinstriped, a black suit might be paired with a crisp white dress shirt and a patterned necktie for a business meeting, worn with a button-up and no tie to a cocktail party or layered over a crew-neck sweater for a more relaxed occasion.
The Tuxedo
The tuxedo, or dinner suit, is typically cut from black wool, with satin lapels and a satin stripe running down the outer legs of the trousers. It emerged in the late 19th century as an option for social engagements that were not quite formal enough to demand a full-on tailcoat, and was so named because of its popularity among the socialites who lived in or visited the affluent New York enclave of Tuxedo Park. You’ll most likely need one for black-tie weddings and maybe, too, for state dinners and award ceremonies.
Many tuxedos are designed with peaked lapels, such as this double-breasted version from the Canadian men’s wear brand Jack Victor, and this style from Brooks Brothers. This one-button tux from the Italian tailoring house Canali is as classic as it gets, while Paul Stuart offers this one with a rounded shawl collar. For a bit of subtle flair, consider this luxe, dark navy option from Tom Ford.
The Summer Suit
The majority of men’s suits are made of worsted wool, which is breathable and resistant to wrinkling but not ideal for warm temperatures. Tropical wools, by contrast, are lightweight, with an open weave that allows air to pass through. Linen and cotton, including seersucker — a striped cotton that got its name from the Persian shirushakar, which means milk and sugar, because the stripes were originally tan and white — are also good choices. Since summer suits are typically associated with being outdoors, they’re often more playful. Many designers are now even offering summer jackets with matching shorts.
The California-based brand Buck Mason sells this relatively affordable jacket, which is made from a blend of cotton and linen, as well as matching trousers. J. Crew has this seersucker jacket, which can also be made into a full suit. To stand out from the crowd, try this style, cut from a blend of flax and wool in a pale plum, from Banana Republic. Otherwise, Vince offers this ivory linen-cotton suit, and the Italian luxury house Brunello Cucinelli sells this one in textured linen twill with an understated chalk stripe.
The Gray Suit
Gray suits are slightly more casual than black ones, but can be just as useful, appropriate for work and parties alike. Gray flannel suits spread across the British Isles and beyond in the 19th century as the Industrial Revolution allowed for less-expensive production of the material. Today, gray suits also come in a variety of other materials, from chino to nubby tweed.
The Frankie Shop, a New York-based contemporary label, offers this blazer and matching pants with a relaxed fit in a mélange fabric, for which raw and dyed fibers are woven together, resulting in a heathered appearance. For those who prefer something slimmer, this single-button option from Bonobos might fit the bill. If you’d like a slightly flared pant, try this double-breasted suit from the American designer Todd Snyder. Then there’s this version with a subtle windowpane check from the British fashion house Paul Smith. And, for an ultra-luxurious option, check out this suit from Zegna, in sumptuous Italian cashmere.
